Lecce is known as the Baroque architecture capital of Italy for its intricate carving decorations that can be seen at its 22+ churches and even more palaces around the city. Only have 24 hours in Lecce? Use this 1-day itinerary to discover all that Lecce Italy has to offer.
The soft “Lecce” limestone found near the city in the 16th and 17th centuries made it easier for stonemasons to carve stunning designs into these structures. Brothers Antonio and Giuseppe Zimbalo are two of the main pioneers of the Lecce baroque architecture. Some of the best examples of the baroque style can be seen in the Church of Sant’Irene, which is free of entry.
There are 3 main entrances to the old walled city, Porta Napoli, Porta Rudiae (the oldest gate), and Porta San Biagio. The perimeter around the walled city is only a couple miles. The Castello Carlo V sits just outside the walls adjacent to the charming Villa Comunale Park, which encompasses a couple large fountains and children’s playgrounds.
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Piazza Sant’Oronzo
Start your morning in the main Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The main focal point of the piazza is the Roman Amphitheater built in the 2nd century AD. It once seated over 14,000 spectators, but less than 1/3 of it is still visible today. Like many ancient Roman civilizations, many of the original structures have been covered by modern buildings and streets. This amphitheater is occasionally opened to the public during summer for concerts.
There’s a tourist information booth in the center of the piazza disguised by one of the only still visible 6th century Roman structures. You can grab maps, sign up for tours and get all your questions answered about Lecce. I definitely recommend paying the 15 euros for the city walking tour. It lasts 1:45-2 hours and will provide some really great historical facts to teach you about the importance of this Italian city.
Of notable mention is the statue of a bishop atop the high column adjacent to the tourist office. This was one of two columns that originally sat at the end of the Appian Way in Brindisi, which was a very important city for imports/exports back in the day.
Breakfast
Take a seat at one of the many cafes in the square and embrace the morning like locals. Watch as children head to school and tour groups pass through. A traditional breakfast in Lecce includes pasticciotto (a cream-filled pastry) and their version of an almond milk latte, espresso with ice and almond purée. I wasn’t a huge fan as it was very sweet!
Pitstop: Shopping & Souvenirs
From here, head along one of the main town streets, Vittorio Emanuele II, as you awe at all the beautifully handcrafted ceramic pieces. These are not your typical souvenir shops as these handmade gifts can’t be found anywhere else in the world.
The Puglia region is full of pinecone-shaped ceramics. When you see them, you’ll know what I’m talking about. These are called pumo de fiore and are considered good luck charms, especially if given as a gift. Locals keep these in their homes and on their balconies to bring good fortune to their families. These come in many different sizes and colors, and will make for a perfect souvenir or parting gift.
Besides all the colorful pottery pieces, papier-mache (cartapesta) is a very popular art form to create statues and figurines that dates back to the 17th century. You can witness the design process at a tiny shop located in the Piazza Del Duomo. This is your next stop.
Piazza Del Duomo
Lecce‘s most beautiful piazza is where its main cathedral is. Unlike the bustling of cafes and shops in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, this piazza is very quiet and intimate.
Beginning a couple months ago, Lecce started charging for entrance to 5 churches. The Duomo is one of those. It’s 9 euros to visit all 5, or you can buy a family pass for 17.50 euros. This is obviously worth it if you’re traveling with others.
We were told that if you say you want to pray, you can get in free. We tried, but it didn’t work. Maybe you will have more luck.
Inside the Duomo is a pristine underground crypt that was used as a secret place of worship in the 17th century when it was rebuilt by Giuseppe Zimbalo. The church is open daily from 8:30a – 12:30p and 4-6p.
Also in the square is the bishop’s current residence and old nun seminary. The seminary is included on your all access church pass so it’s worth stopping through. There’s not much to see besides a charming courtyard and rotating contemporary art exhibit. I highly recommend also visiting the Piazza del Duomo lit up at night.
Roman Theater
Just a couple blocks from this piazza is the Roman Theater, one of the other very few standing structures from the 2nd century AD in Lecce. Hidden amongst some commonplace buildings, you’ll be able to take a step back in time to a gathering place that once held 5,000 spectators for plays and concerts.
Without knowing where to find the theater, you’d be lucky to happen across the small side street entrance off Via Ammirati. The museum is open Mon-Sat 9:30am – 1pm for 3 euros.
Lunch
You’re already halfway through your 24 hours in Lecce. By 1pm, you’ll notice that many of the shops and attractions close down for a siesta. Head to one of the main piazzas to find a restaurant open for lunch.
My recommendation is Il Poeta Contadino in Piazza Sant’Castromediano. Highlights are the tempura vegetables and fish, and the traditional vegetarian dish of chicory and puréed fava beans. Meals are roughly 8-12 euros each.
Church of Sant’Irene
After lunch, head back to Via Vittorio Emmanuele to visit Church of Sant’Irene (mentioned early), which was built in 1591 by the priest-architect Francesco Grimaldi. Some of the most detailed baroque designs can be found on the interior, focusing on scenes of life, fertility and nativity.
A watch tower was added in the 19th century to look out for warships on the Adriatic Sea.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT: Faggiano Archeological Museum
Your next stop was the highlight of my trip, the Faggiano Archeological Museum. I know what you’re thinking…archeology museums just have a bunch of old bones and pottery, been there, done that. That’s what I thought too so while my parents went to visit this museum, I went for an Aperol Spritz at a nearby piazza. They came back raving about how it was not your average archeological museum, so I figured I must go see it for myself.
It’s actually a private home that was purchased in 1984. In 2001, the owners decided they wanted to turn it into a restaurant so they started breaking through the floors. They were dumbfounded to discover ancient sewer lines and escape passages just a few meters below the surface. At that time, they decided to hold off on their restaurant dreams and continue digging, even though the government wouldn’t provide any financial assistance. They have found cisterns, tombs, secret passageways and a ton of ancient artifacts dating back 2500 years.
The home was opened as a museum in 2008 by the family, whom still runs it to share its histories and stories. The family has now bought the two adjacent properties to continue their excavations. This just goes to show how many secrets and stories have yet to be uncovered in this ancient city.
Other Museums and Sights
24 hours in Lecce Italy isn’t a lot but if you still have some extra time to spare, here are a couple extra ideas. As you walk to the archeological museum, make sure to stop by the churches of Sant’Chiara and Sant’Matteo. They are included on your museum pass but less opulent than others in town.
Before apertivo time, visit the Basilica di Santa Croce which is included on your 5 church pass. This is considered Lecce’s most extravagant baroque church; however, they’re doing some restoration on the outside walls. The church is open from 9am – 12pm and 3:30pm – 7:30pm.
Apertivo Happy Hour
We tried a couple bars along the lively Via Umberto I and our favorite was Mamma Elvira Enoteca. Their bruschetta was second to none. They also have a large selection of sandwiches and appetizers.
Most bars in Lecce allow you to taste the wine before pouring so you might as well try out something new. We are new fans of Primitivo wines which come from the Puglia Region and tend to be more affordable.
Dinner & Drinks
Between the hours of 5-8, you’ll be surprised to see the streets are quite empty. Then, the town really comes alive after 9pm when all the locals gather for dinner and drinks at their favorite bistros and bars.
Beloved by Anthony Bourdain, Alle Due Corti is a definite must for dinner. They are well-respected for their authenticity to local cuisine and long-standing traditions like turcineddhi (roasted baby goat) and ciceri e tria (crispy fried pasta with chickpeas).
Popular bars include 45 Cocktail Bar, Prohibition, and Quanto Basta.
A lot of tourist books also told us that Baldo was the best gelato in Lecce. I beg to differ. Tentazioni, located right in the main square, serves you up large scoops with a million different flavors to choose from. They also have a large selection of other desserts, pastries and drinks if you’re in the mood for something else.
What Else You Need to Know for your 24 hours in Lecce
WIFI
There’s free WIFI is many parts of the city if you connect to Lecce WIFI. You have to go through a short sign-up process and enter a credit card that only charges you $.01.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Centro Storico B&B and I can’t speak highly enough about our visit. Located at 2 Via A. Vignes, you’re just a couple minutes away from all of the main old city attractions.
The beautifully restored baroque palace is run by two brothers who extend the same attention to their guests. They were punctual and communicative upon arrival and gave us all their local recommendations for Lecce.
The rooms has lovely high ceilings, baroque interior decor and modern fixtures in the bathrooms.
The best part is the hot tub on the rooftop with views of several nearby churches. One of the hotel rooms is even on the roof in an added guesthouse.
If cities like Lecce, Italy are your cup of tea, you should definitely look into Piazza Armerina, Sicily as a destination as well.
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