Things to See and Do in Boyle Heights

This week’s feature is Boyle Heights, a less-frequented yet notably historic region of Los Angeles. From its vibrant and consequential street art scene to its iconic L.A. restaurant origins, there’s so much to see and do in Boyle Heights Los Angeles.

Although mostly a Latino community today, Boyle Heights Los Angeles is truly a cultural melting pot that has endured a few acculturations throughout its history. I am especially delighted to share this blog post with you all because Boyle Heights is very close to my heart. My grandpa used to live in Boyle Heights where he owned his pickle factory, so it was exciting for me to explore some of my ancestral roots while in the area. 

Boyle Heights Brief History

Boyle Heights’ history dates back to the late 19th century when Los Angeles was still divided into 9 wards. This area that encompassed Brooklyn Heights, Euclid Heights, and others, was named after Andrew Boyle, an Irishman who purchased 22 acres of land after fighting in the Mexican-American War.

Today, Boyle Heights has become an enclave of about 100,000 residents, mostly of Hispanic decent. It hasn’t always been this way, though.

Back in the 1920’s, most of Los Angeles was divided into pockets based on race and ethnicity. Boyle Heights was unique in that Mexicans, blacks, Jewish, Eastern-Europeans and Asians all called the neighborhood ‘home’. This is mostly because other areas of Los Angeles had alienated them when a large influx of migrants moved to the city with hopes of finding industrial work.

By the 1930’s, Boyle Heights has become the biggest sector for Jews in Los Angeles. The historic Talmud Torah Synagogue, known as Breed Street Shul today, had 75,000 members at the time. The Shul served almost like an Ellis Island of the West. It was a gateway to life in America for many Eastern European immigrants and helped them find a community in L.A.

1949 was an important year for Boyle Heights, as Mexican-American Edward R. Roybal was appointed to city council, helping to implement civil rights movements and anti-prejudice activism for minorities.

Between 1960-1975, the Breed Street Shul began looking a bit haggard due to lack of maintenance and vandalism. Its decrepitation mirrored what was going on in Boyle Heights with a demographic shift and increase in gang violence. Jewish residents started fleeing the area for Mid-City, San Fernando Valley, and Northeast L.A. as the Great Migration lended to more blacks moving into the area. 

In 2000, a group of Latinos and Jews joined together to restore the Breed Street Shul and help make it a center point of the community. 

Today, Boyle Heights is seeing swift gentrification as trendy restaurants and coffee shops are moving in. Old buildings are being purchased by developers and renovated; the most notable being the historic Sears building. If you’ve never visited the Sears building Boyle Heights, its beautiful art-deco exterior is worth driving by!

What to Do in Boyle Heights

Mariachi Plaza

When people think of Boyle Heights, Mariachi Plaza may likely be the first place that comes to mind. Mariachi Plaza is a cherished landmark of the Latino community in Los Angeles. It is named after the mariachi musicians who have gathered to play in the plaza since the 1930’s, in hopes of being seen and hired by visitors.

This place has a magical aura about it that makes you feel as if you’ve just walked onto the set of a telenovela. Picture this: A mariachi band leans against the white stone gazebo harmonizing to the strokes of a guitar while local skaters glide along the rails showing off their best kickflips and slides. There is always something happening in this central gathering area for you to check out during your trip.

The stones that make up the stunning centerpiece gazebo were actually carved and constructed in Jalisco, Mexico where mariachi music originated.

Hollenbeck Park

Hollenbeck Park was once known as the most beautiful park in Los Angeles, yet is almost unknown today to most Angelenos. Built in 1892, it was considered a lush oasis for the neighborhood with a walking path encompassing the perimeter of the lake and a walking bridge crossing over. The park still features the same adornments and is still a stunning park, but doesn’t receive nearly the same about of visitation as it used to.

Unfortunately in 1960, the city of L.A. decided to built the 5 Freeway right above a portion of the lake. A group of advocates started a petition to halt the construction and received 15,000 signatures, but it wasn’t enough to stop the process.

Breed Street Shul

In the 1970s, the historic Breed Street Shul was victim to vandalism and earthquake damage, and eventually services ended in 1996. A group of community members federated to stop the demolition of the Shul and to develop a long-term plan for reconstruction.

A small portion of the 1915 building reopened in November 2011, which you can now see in Boyle Heights. For $20, you can tour the antiquated structure and learn more about why the Breed Street Shul is one of the most iconic, yet unheeded landmarks in all of Los Angeles.

Explore the Street Art

My absolute favorite thing to do in Boyle Heights is explore all the colorful and historic street art that can be found along almost every main street and alley. Wall murals throughout East L.A. became a decisive component of the Chicano Movement of the 1970’s. Local artists finally had a canvas to tell their stories and voice community issues, such as immigration, violence, and poverty.

Evergreen Memorial Park & Cemetery

The last thing to do in Boyle Heights is visit the Evergreen Cemetery. It may look like an ordinary cemetery while driving through but it has a long history, so visiting is something you absolutely must do in Boyle Heights. Evergreen Cemetery is the oldest nondenominational cemetery in Los Angeles, being built in 1877. The burials were segregated by race, with an area reserved for unclaimed bodies called the potter’s field. Each year, roughly 1,500 homeless or unidentified people are cremated and buried together in a grave in the cemetery. 

Many Los Angeles pioneers have been buried in the park as well, included the Van Nuys family, Charlotta Bass, and Biddy Mason. 

Libros Schmibros Lending Library

Libros Schmibros is a fantastic organization that offers free or very cheap books to anyone who passes through their shop, located right across from Mariachi Plaza. They know how the power of reading and learning can change people’s lives, so the donation-based.

They are constantly looking for ways to be innovative in the learning space. During September, they go for bike rides through the Boyle Heights neighborhood with 40 books each and pass them out to those passing by. They have a whole calendar full of events going on, so check out their website.

Shopping

Shopping in Boyle Heights is still rather scarce, but you can find some beautiful artisan pieces that speak to authentic Latino culture. There are a few shops you must check out while visiting the area. 

The grand El Mercado Boyle Heights is much like a swap meet selling authentic Latino products and foods. There are several retail shops selling hand-embroidered tunics, moccasins and embellished cowboy boots. Then you can choose between eating at the lively, sit-down restaurant upstairs while a mariachi band performs. Or, grab a quick bite at one of the many foods stands downstairs, serving everything from tacos to mole to raspados.

Espacio 1839 is a local favorite, selling items produced and crafted by Boyle Heights residents. This grassroots shop is giving local artists a space to have their products seen. They sell everything, including shirts, artwork, jewelry and collectibles.

The Garage Board Shop is your go-to for everything skateboarding related. The shop was founded in 2007 by Christina Cerrera and her husband with a mission to help inner-city kids stay off the streets, avoid negative influences, and find a community. They sell their own brand products as well as all the other top skater brands.

Even if you’re not looking for a skateboard, I highly recommend stopping by The Garage Board Shop to chat with Christina and hear her story. What she does is a labor of love and she has empowered so many youths to create better opportunities for themselves and the local community. 

Where to Eat in Boyle Heights

Many people don’t realize that several iconic L.A. restaurants and companies have their roots in Boyle Heights, including Guisados, La Monarcha Bakery, and Homeboy Industries. And I have no doubt that this number will continue to grow. 

La Monarca Bakery

12 shops in 12 years – It didn’t take long for Angelenos to find out about this delicious mom and pop Boyle Heights-started bakery. Opening its first door right in Mariachi Plaza, there are now 12 La Monarcha Bakeries scattered throughout Los Angeles.

After seeing a few around town, I first stepped in their Hollywood location and WOW, I can see what all the buzz is about. My personal favorites are their quiche, cafe de olla (cinnamon-spiced coffee blend), chai lattes, and torta sandwiches. Make sure to grab a selection of pan dulce too before heading to work – they’re sure to be a hit!

Un Solo Sol

It’s hard to describe this restaurant as one specific type of food, because frankly, it’s an ethnic blend. While their roots are in Latin American cuisine, they pull inspiration from Peruvian, Mexican, Persian, Indian, Greek, and Chinese cultures. And on top of that, half of their menu is vegetarian- or vegan-friendly!

I’ll be the first to admit that normally that would steer me away from wanting to try a restaurant. I was a bit one-track minded before visiting Un Solo Sol, thinking that you can only excel in one cuisine. Un Solo Sol has certainly proven me wrong! 

My personal favorites are the enchiladas, pupupas, nopalitos taco, and stuffed baked plantain. 

King Taco Boyle Heights

If you’re looking for the ultimate, delicious cheap eat, you must hit up King Taco. What all began in 1974 from a converted ice cream truck, has now grown to a 20-store empire throughout Los Angeles. Recognized by numerous food critics, King Taco doesn’t only cheap tacos, they sell delicious, high-quality cheap tacos. Their Boyle Heights shop is located on East Cesar E Chavez Ave.

Their meats are extremely tender and there over 10 types to choose from! My personal favorites are the lingua and carnitas.

Weird Wave Coffee Roasters

After you grab your taco, head across the street to the COFFEE & PIZZA sign. This is Weird Wave Coffee Brewers, a relatively new addition to the neighborhood. While the original “pizza” sign is still up, I don’t think they actually sell pizza anymore. They do have delicious coffee and pastries, as well as their own book lending library.

Eastside Luv

Looking for a place to go out at night? Try the funky Eastside Luv Wine Bar, with its lucha libre posters and red velvet wallpaper. Multiple nights a week they have DJs spinning and cabaret dancers.