First Timer’s Guide to Cuba: 24 Hours in Old Havana (Habana Vieja)

If you are planning to visit Cuba for just a few days, consider staying in Havana the whole time and taking day trips to neighboring cities. Everything in the old city is relatively close together, so 24 hours in Old Havana is enough time to explore most of the top sights.

If you haven’t checked out my post on all the important info you must know before traveling to Cuba, read up on that first here. 

A LITTLE OLD HAVANA HISTORY

Havana was founded in 1519 by Spanish settlers on their way to the New World, so many of the buildings are a mixture of stunning Baroque and Neoclassical architecture. However the wear and tear of years of oppression and Caribbean storms left much of the city in shambles. In 2011, Habana Vieja (classified by its former city walls) was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so much restoration has been done in a few short years to rebuild the existing structures to their original form and design. As part of the restoration agreement, many of the unused buildings in the Habana Vieja area have now been turned into museums and cultural centers open to the public for free.

PRESENT DAY

Present-day Cuba is rich in all of the 3 C’s: culture, color, and cuisine. Just picture piercing blue waters situated next to brightly colored fortifications with locals dancing through the unrefined streets to upbeat salsa music. 

With huge smiles on their faces, Cubans are warm, welcoming, and eager to invite you to share in their vibrant culture. Homes are often left wide open during the day (that’s how safe it is). The locals can be found socializing in the streets over chess and juice box rum (Tumbao Ron). It doesn’t take long to feel as if you’re part of the community once you let go of your inhibitions and join in on the party. And yes, you will be invited to join the party.

TIP: You’ll see vintage cars all over Havana and obviously no trip to Cuba is complete without riding in one. Chances are, you’ll probably ride in one from the airport, so that’s your opportunity to take lots of pictures and make all your friends jealous. I don’t recommend picking one up in touristy areas like the Grand Theater or Plaza de San Francisco, as they’ll up-charge exuberantly.

START OF YOUR ’24 HOURS IN OLD HAVANA’

Have your casa particular prepare you an early breakfast (normally about $5) and hit the town. There’s something so magical about waking up early and watching the city come alive around you.

PLAZA VIEJA

Start your 24 hours in Old Havana at the Plaza Vieja. Grab a coffee at Cafe El Escorial and people watch as locals and tourists quickly populate the area. Little children running after one another in a game of chase while their parents set up stands to sell handmade goods and refreshing coconuts. Admire the beautiful craftsmanship of these newly refurbished buildings that tell decades-old tales of conquest and resistance behind every wall. Between the hours of 10am-5:20pm, you can check out the Camera Oscura for 2 CUC located on the top floor of Edificio Gómez Vila.

PLAZA DE ARMAS

From there, continue your 24 hours in Old Havana by heading north along Mercaderes St. towards Plaza de Armas. Everything in Habana Vieja is relatively close, so try walking everywhere as it’s truly amazing all the architecture you’ll notice on foot. Art is a huge part of Cuban culture, so be sure to look for colorful paintings and sculptures crafted by local artisans as well as famous masters.

You’ll know once you’ve reached the Plaza de Armas because you’ll be greeted by many book and artisan sellers. You’ll also notice the Castillo de la Real Fuerza on the northeast corner, which is the city’s oldest defense structure. Open between 9:30am-5pm Tues-Sun, this is definitely worth the 2 CUC for some amazing views of the ocean and El Morro fortress across the bay.

PLAZA DE LA CATEDRAL

Next, walk away from the water and you’ll arrive at the Plaza de la Catedral, where the 1770 Havana Cathedral still stands. The church is free to enter between the hours of 10:30am-3pm and you can marvel at the mixture of Baroque and Neoclassical interior decor. They still hold masses in the church all throughout the week, so check the website if you’re interested in attending.

TIP: All around Habana Vieja, you’ll find open doorways leading into small courtyards. Many of these are free and open to the public as part of the UNESCO restoration movement to turn old buildings into museums and cultural centers. It’s worth a walk-in as you’ll discover some of the hidden gems of this city. Many of these museums are dedicated to international artistry as well. If it looks like a gallery, it’s most likely free to enter. 

LA BODEGUITO DEL MEDIO

After you finish in the Plaza de la Catedral, walk west down Empedrado St so that you can pass by the infamous La Bodeguito del Medio. This tiny hole-in-the-wall became famous as Hemingway’s favorite drinking spot. With graffiti all over the walls, this joint has a ton of character and will serve you up one of the best mojitos in town. 

MUSEO DE LA REVOLUCION

Your next stop should be the Museo de la Revolucion. For 5 CUC, you’ll be able to explore what once was the Government and Council of Ministers building after the Cuban Revolution. Fun Facts: The interior was decorated by Tiffany’s, and you can still see bullet holes in the walls from where enemies attacked. Most of the information in the museum is in Spanish; however, seeing all the old relics still makes it worth the trip. Behind the building in the gardens, you’ll have the opportunity to see Pabellón Granma, the yacht that Fidel Castro sailed on from Mexico to launch the Revolution.

LUNCH TIME

If you are halfway through your 24 hours in Old Havana, I have two recommendations for lunch in the area. ChaChaCha is great for authentic Cuban food, a fun interior and even more fun drinks. 5 Esquinas Trattoria is perfect for pizza and an adorable outdoor seating area.

PASEO DE MARTI

After lunch, walk a few streets west and you’ll run into the Paseo de Marti, the first street built outside the former city walls. It was originally hoped to be as extravagant as any walking street in Europe and a commercial center for business. Today, many of the buildings are still in ruins; however, you can still see remains of its old opulence. If you happen to be traveling on the weekend, make sure to check out the art market that takes place on the Paseo. Today, the Paseo is still a very important street as it takes you straight into Centro Habana where you can find the Grand Theatre, Capitol Building, etc.

CENTRO HABANA

Now walk away from the water until you hit the end of the Paseo. You’re now in Centro Habana with many worthwhile sights to check out. You’ll find Central Park here with a gorgeous marble statue of Jose Marti, the first statue erected of the leader in the country.

FUN FACT: Behind the statue, you’ll see the huge Cuban Capitol building. If it looks familiar, that’s because the design was based on our U.S. Capitol building; however, it is not an exact replica.

In this same area you’ll also find the opulent Gran Teatro de la Habana. Originally, a different theater stood in its place, being built in 1838, which was then torn down in 1907 to make room for this one. Today, the theater serves as the home to the Cuban National Ballet with over 1500 seats inside. It is one of the most recognized buildings in Cuba because of its intricate design and adornments; and, it’s even more stunning at night with the exquisite lighting that covers the entire facade.

There are several other points of interest in this area including Teatro Marti, Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas, Museo de Bellas Artes Cubano, Hotel Inglaterra, and Parque Central Hotel. If you’re interested in learning about how cigars are made, this Fabrica is Havana’s oldest and most famous factory, which you can take a tour of for only 10 CUC. Hotel Inglaterra has a beautiful outdoor seating area to grab a drink and food that overlooks the Grand Theater and Central Park. This is one of the fanciest hotels in Havana, so you can expect to pay for the quality and views. Parque Central Hotel is worth a stop for their delicious mojito on the 2nd floor where you can also hook up to free WIFI. Make your way up to the roof as well for a stunning view of the city and Capitol building.

O’REILLY STREET

Once you’ve finished exploring the Centro Habana area, stop by the world famous El Floridita Bar for a delicious Daiquiri, also made famous by Hemingway. It is very touristy, so I don’t recommend trying to eat there for dinner as you may have to wait a couple hours. You can find the restaurant right behind the Museo de Bellas Artes Cubano.

From here, head back to the Plaza de la Catedral area by walking down O’Reilly or Obispo streets. You’ll find these streets are packed with tourists and locals shuffling in and out of one store and art gallery after another. This is a great area to pick up souvenirs and Cuban handmade crafts.

Along the way, make a stop at El Ojo del Ciclón (Eye of the Cyclone), one of the most interesting interactive art galleries I’ve ever experienced. The genius behind this space is Leo D’Lazaro, a sculptor, painter, photographer, and designer. While it’s right on the main street of O’Reilly, it doesn’t look like much from the outside. Once you step inside, it’s like entering into someone else’s creative mind as you’ll find a unque mixture of Burning Man-like sculptures and vintage collectibles. Many of the handmade pieces are interactive like the foosball table, swing, and kaleidoscope. 

One other worthwhile quick stop is at the Museo Farmacia Taquechel. Restored and reopened in 1996, this small store features hundreds of porclein apothecary jars filled with natural and pharmaceutical remedies. If you happen to get sick during your trip (like I did), this is definitely the place to go.

DINNER TIME

Here are two recommendations for dinner in the Plaza de la Catedral area. If you’re looking for a more authentic Cuban dinner on the cheaper side, try Paladar Dona Eutima, which has a quaint, homey feel. Or, for a more modern Cuban-American flare, try the popular restaurant O‘Reilly 304.

MORRO CABANA   

The best way to end your evening is across the bay at the Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro. The sunset from Morro Cabana is a Caribbean dream-come-true, unlike anything you’ve seen before. At 9pm every night, a cannon is shot off from La Cabana, as an ode to colonial days when the cannon would be shot to announce the closing of the city gates at night. Starting around 7:30pm, crowds gather at Morro Castle and the festivities begin. Depending what time it is by now and what time of the year you are visiting, you have a couple options to get over there.

OPTION 1: If it’s staying light later and you still have some time on your hands, the more picturesque and exciting route is to take the 5 minute ferry from the harbor near Plaza de San Fransisco across to Casablanca. You can walk at the water’s edge along the famous Malecon heading southeast to get there. Ferries run regularly from about 7am to 9:30pm. Once you get to the other side, it’s still a bit of a trek. You have to climb up a relatively steep hill until you reach the huge Christ of Havana statue, overlooking all of the Old City. You’ll also find the home of Che Guevara here (open 10am-6pm).

After soaking in the views, follow Arret de Los Cocos Rd through the active military base. You’ll see several fighter jets, missiles, and artifacts from the Cuban Missile Crisis. Continue on the road, and you’ll come to the entrance for the Castillo de Los Tres Reyes del Morro. 

OPTION 2: If it’s already getting late and the sun is beginning to set, you can grab a cab and drive through the underwater tunnel to the other side of the bay. There will be plenty of cabs waiting by the castle as well for your return.

PARTY LIKE LOCALS

If you’re looking for an authentic Cuban late night experience in the Habana Vieja/Habana Centro area, I highly recommend befriending locals and asking where the parties are at that night. Cubans are always hosting get-togethers at their homes as well as dancing salsa in the streets, and are very welcoming to invite you. It’s usually pretty easy to meet locals wandering through the raw streets of Centro Habana or along the Malecon. You definitely never know where you’ll end up – We ended up at a family’s birthday party in an apartment building being served rum shots, barbecue and cake. It truly made for a Habana Real experience.

Besides your 24 hours in Old Havana, consider taking a day trip to Vinales during your visit to Cuba to explore its lush green landscapes and tobacco farms.