First Timer’s Guide to Cuba: What You Need to Know Before Leaving the States

So this post is a bit long overdue as I visited Cuba almost a year ago to the day, but with the new U.S. Government restrictions as of November 2017 and a quick drop-off in tourism to Cuba thereafter, I realized that this blog post was needed now more than ever #BetterLateThanNever

When the flood gates for direct U.S. to Cuba flights first opened a little over a year ago, numerous airlines started adding flights to cater to all the excitement of this previously exiled country. However, with recent changes to travel regulations aimed at helping the Cuban people achieve more political and economic freedom away from the Cuban government, traveling to the country is once again becoming more complicated. Many of those same airlines who added flights a year ago are now cancelling those routes and therefore, travelers are cancelling their plans as well. Too much research, too much uncertainty, too much unknown. I think a lot of travelers are expecting to arrive in an exotic, untouched paradise, then find themselves surprised by the fact that life isn’t as luxurious and laidback as they had anticpated. Cuba is more of a journey into the past, a step back in time to a city where history replays itself and modernism is just in its infancy.

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My hope is that this post will help clear up a few of your Cuban travel misconceptions and questions, and make your realize why this destination should still be on your bucket list!

If you have already booked your trip and are just looking for information about what to do in Cuba, check out my posts on Old Havana and Vinales.

Pre-Planning. Pre-Planning. Pre-Planning – I Can’t Stress This Enough.

You’ll learn through my blog that my travels revolve around a mixture of spontaneity and a little bit of pre-planning. Seeing as this was my first solo trip in a few years and knowing that WiFi hotspots are VERY LIMITED and U.S. credit cards don’t work, I knew I needed to do A LOT of prior research to assure I was prepared. Where to stay, how much cash to bring, what day trips to incorporate in your visit – all of this should be planned before leaving the States. I actually created a tentative itinerary with tons of specific info pertaining to each activity, so that I could fully take advantage of my 5 days there. This was also good to have as evidence of the purpose of my travels.

Insider Tip: I also highly recommend downloading the TripAdvisor app before leaving and installing the Havana Downloaded Interactive Cities page in the “Me” section. This will tell you all about the things to do, places to eat, and places to stay without Internet connection. This is so essential to have in a country that still has very limited Internet in 2018.

THE 12 CATEGORIES – WHICH DO YOU FIT INTO

When you first start thinking about whether Cuba is the right destination for your next trip, your first step is to review the list of “reasons” to visit Cuba and decide whether you fit into 1 of the 12 categories, since general “tourism” is not a valid option:

  1. Family visits
  2. Official business of the U.S. government, foreign governments, and certain intergovernmental organizations
  3. Journalistic activity
  4. Professional research and professional meetings
  5. Educational activities
  6. Religious activities
  7. Public performances, clinics, workshops, athletic and other competitions, and exhibitions
  8. Support for the Cuban people
  9. Humanitarian projects
  10. Activities of private foundations or research or educational institutes
  11. Exportation, importation, or transmission of information or information materials
  12. Certain export transactions that may be considered for authorization under existing regulations and guidelines.
During my visit, I chose educational purposes (people-to-people) as my true reason for visiting was to interact with as many locals as possible and learn about their native customs, which I definitely accomplished. However, this category has new restrictions as of November 2017 and my reason for visiting would no longer be authorized. New rules say that in order to go for an educational purpose, you must travel with an independently-run organized tour whose purpose is to educate travelers on the people and culture of Cuba.
Okay so Educational Purposes are off the list, now how can we get to Cuba without paying for an organized tour? Well it all really depends on what your ultimate tourism goal is. I personally think the easiest way to get around the system while still following the law is by choosing Support for the Cuban PeopleIt’s a very simple rule to follow, and upon your visit to Cuba, you’ll quickly realize why you do want to support the Cuban people. The new sanctions say that you must engage in a full-time schedule of activities resulting in meaningful interactions with Cuban individuals. These can include renting a room in a casa particular (private Cuban residence), eating at a paladares (privately-owned Cuban restaurant) or shopping at a cuentapropistas, a shop owned by self-employed Cubans. This is another good reason to create an itinerary prior to arrival so you have written documentation of the purpose of your travels. I was questioned upon booking my flight, at the check-in counter in the Fort Lauderdale airport, and in customs upon my return to the states; otherwise, no one asked for any type of evidence pertaining to my reasons for visiting. Believe me, the Cuban people want you there and once you arrive in the country, you’ll have nothing to worry about. 

ACQUIRING A VISA

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At first, my understanding was that I had to apply for a Visa through the US – Cuban Embassy website, filling out documentation that sighted my reasoning for visiting. I read through every webpage and even called both embassies to figure out how to get this Visa. Turns out it was WAY easier than that. You can get the Visa through your air carrier at the U.S. airport check-in counter, or through a couple other reliable websites. I flew Frontier there and Spirit back and found out after I booked my airfare that Frontier did not offer Visas at the check-in counters. Thank goodness I found this out a month before leaving, otherwise my trip would have ended at my connecting airport in Fort Lauderdale. I used Airline Brokers for my Visa and they were very efficient in sending out my pass quickly; however, I ended up sending about $30 more than other people who were able to pick it up at the airport. My recommendation would be to call your airline directly about how to acquire a Visa. 
Another important factor to note is that you must show proof of a return flight within 30 days when booking airfare, buying a visa, and checking in at the airport – that’s the allowed length of stay allocated per entry on a tourist visa.

AIRLINE CARRIERS

When I took flight, I had the options of either Alaska Airlines, American, Delta, JetBlue, Frontier, Silver Airways, Spirit, Southwest, or United. Today, only American, Delta, JetBlue, Southwest and United are left, and even those have reduced their daily flights to Cuba. If you had already booked travels on one of the flights that got cancelled, airlines have promised to book you on another carrier free of charge. Most flight are now only headed to Havana. From Havana you can book domestic flights to other parts of the country, but make sure to look into destinations ahead of time as you cannot use a U.S. credit card inside Cuba.

I should also mention that while I flew directly from the United States to Cuba, many Americans take the Mexico connection route. If fact, Americans have been doing this for decades while the travel ban was in place and from what I’ve heard, it works very efficiently. It might be even easier as you don’t have to prove 1 of the 12 categories for visiting the country, and you can acquire a Cuban Visa at the Mexican airport for only $20. Multiple carriers including Aeromexico, Interjet, Copa, Avianca, and Cubana have direct flights between the two countries.

WHERE TO STAY

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You have two main options when deciding where to stay in Cuba: a hotel or casa particular. There are advantages and disadvantages to both, however I will tell you right off the bat that if you are trying to apply for a visa under Support for the Cuban People, your best option is to stay at a casa particular.

Let’s discuss both options. Hotels may seem like the more accommodating and comfortable option overall, but they don’t always run cheap. A stay at one of Cuba’s fancier hotels like the infamous Hotel Nacional can cost you $250 per night, and that’s on the cheaper side. Sure these hotels are opulent and luxurious with free breakfast and entertainment included, but you should also remember that everything in Cuba is outdated, so even the 5-star hotels could use a few upgrades.

Whether you stay at the Hotel Nacional or not though, I highly recommend spending a night out at the Parisien Cabaret. For $65 USD, you get a 3-course dinner, a drink, and an unforgettable experience at one of the most famous cabaret shows in the world. Hotel Nacional is located in the Vedado area, as is many of the larger hotels. It’s a little farther away from the Centro Habana but is known for being the nightlife hotspot. 

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With the new U.S. government sanctions restricting financial transactions with any government-run company, many of the hotels around the country are now restricted for stay. The main two tourism/hotel groups to stay away from are Gaviota and Habaguanex. You can still the full list of companies and hotels here
Now let’s discuss the casa particulares. This is essentially Cuba’s version of an AirBnB as you stay at someone’s home. Some are referred to as hostels because multiple guests will be staying at the same time, but they are all privately-owned by families. This is one of the few ways locals have a chance to make income outside of the $30 allocated to each resident per month. Casa Particulares are much more economical, averaging between $20-100/night based on whether you are renting an individual room or the whole house. They are generally pretty simple (however I did see some ones that were even nicer than the hotels) and often in the not-so-beautiful areas of Cuba, but they give a realistic look into life for the Cuban people. 
I stayed at the Hostal Habana Real in the Habana Real neighborhood of Havana, and can’t speak highly enough about my experience. There were several rooms for travelers and concierge (family members) was available around the clock to let you in or make you breakfast for $5 USD. The inside was very cute and quaint, but step outside the front doors and there’s nothing but demolished buildings and corroded roads. Walking around this area makes it very clear why Cuba is a third world country. You may feel unsafe at first just based on the surroundings as I did being a solo female traveler, but I never once was threatened or harassed.
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There’s a reason this area is called Habana Real as this is how Cubans really live. There is something still very beautiful and authentic about these areas, as one will find decades of history and stories written into the fallen walls. The country has made huge restorations to the Habana Vieja (the center of the tourist area) in recent years but there is still much to be improved. 

CURRENCY

Okay this is where things get confusing and honestly I did not really understand the currency exchange throughout my entire visit. I even got mad at a local because I thought she was trying to rip me off, which I later realized was not the case. There are TWO different forms of currency: the CUC used at most all restaurants and stores, and the CUP, used for person-to-person exchanges and small food stands. To make it easier for yourself, stick to the more upgraded establishments because they will all accept CUC. However, to find some cheap deals, I ate at a few local food stands, which use CUP. Unfortunately, the signs don’t always say whether it’s CUC or CUP, so you just have to figure it out for yourself. 

I made an exchange chart for myself before I left for Cuba to easily remind myself how much everything roughly costed in USD:

1 CUC = $1
10 CUC = $10
50 CUC = $50
 
25 CUP = $1
250 CUP = $10
1250 CUP = $50
Since you can’t use American credit or debit cards in Cuba, you have to bring all cash with you. Pre-planning your trip definitely comes in hand when figuring out how much cash you need to bring in order to do and see everything you want. While still in the U.S., exchange USD for euros because euros get a better exchange rate as you don’t have to pay the 10% penalty rate that USD does. Once you get to the airport in Cuba, I recommend exchanging some of your euros for CUC to get you going and pay for the taxi into town. Once in town, you can find any CADECA (change bureau) or Cuban *BFI Bank to exchange more money as you go. 
To give you an idea of how much you might need: For 5 days, I brought $350 so roughly $70 a day, and that was more than enough. I had already paid for my casa particular and day trip to Vinales before leaving. However, I know some people who spent $35/day and others that spend $100. If you plan on booking tours while in the country, you may want to plan on bringing more. Also, out of that $350, I only exchanged $10 worth of CUP – most things you’ll be buying in CUP are worth pennies.

WIFI

cubansathotspotSource: La Red Cubana

As you’ve probably heard, there is finally WiFi in the country but only in specific locations. There are not always signs stating that it’s a WiFi enabled zone, but it’s pretty easy to figure it out as you’ll see large crowds of people huddled around. You can also get WiFi at the Park View Hotel in Havana (however you can’t stay here because it’s a Gaviota Hotel). Don’t expect the WiFi to be fast either. It can be quite spotty and often shuts you out unexpectedly. In order to use WiFi, you have to buy a WiFi card from one of the hustlers hanging out in those designated areas. Normally, they cost about $5 for 1 hour of Internet connectivity. 

If you take anything away from this blog post, my best recommendation is try to use the Internet as little as possible. There was something so calming and invigorating about knowing that I couldn’t check my work emails or stalk friends on Instagram. I feel like I was able to embrace the local culture even more because I didn’t have a single worry about anything else going on in the world except where I was going to explore later that afternoon. That’s not to say I didn’t use the Internet, because I did, but just to let my family know I was okay. 

CHECKING BAGS & “SPECIAL SOUVENIRS”

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I heard other travelers talk about having their checked bags lost upon entry into Cuba, so I just brought a carry-on for my 5-day trip just to be safe. I had zero issues with check-in and arrivals going both directions. It was actually an extremely smooth and easy process as the Havana airport is very small and everyone is extremely friendly. I did not see anyone else around me have issues with bags either.
I did buy a checked bag on my way back to the states though as I knew I’d want to pick up a few “special souvenirs” (cigars/rum) that wouldn’t be able to travel in my carry-on. In 2016, the Obama administration eliminated the $100 limit on export of Cuban cigars for personal use. Now you can bring back up to 100 Cuban cigars as well as several bottles of rum in your luggage. High-end cigars that cost $100/box in Cuba can go for upwards of $100/cigar in the States, so this is definitely a nice gift to bring back from friends and family. However, you have to be careful not to buy Ron Varadero or Ron Carney as those are on the restricted rum list, as both brands are manufactured by the Cuban government. Thank goodness two of the more popular exported brands, Santiago de Cuba and Havana Club rums are not on the restricted list. Cuba is also known for its perfumes, honey, and colorful artwork, which are all legally allowed to be brought back into the States as well.
I’d highly recommend you plan ahead and book a checked return bag just in case you too wish to bring some party favors back, as you won’t be able to use your credit card at the airport in Cuba.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE FROM HAVANA

Many hotels and casa particulares will offer car services to individuals arriving at and departing from the airport. These usually cost 25 CUC each way and are definitely the most convenient option so you don’t have to worry about negotiating. I didn’t have this option but knew ahead of time that I could get a ride for 20 CUC into Centro Habana, so I negotiated with the different taxi drivers until I found one willing to match that price. They of course started off at 30 CUC, but be patient and you can get that price down. The ride to/from the airport takes 20-30 minutes and you’ll have the opportunity to ride in one of the infamous vintage cars. Many of them are not the cleanest or fanciest on the inside, but they sure are fun to ride in. On your departure from Havana, you’ll have no problem catching a taxi in the streets as they circle frequently, but you can always have your host call one for you as well.

LANGUAGE BARRIER

Most Cubans speak very little, if any, English, so traveling with someone who knows Spanish is obviously ideal. Since I was traveling alone and don’t know much Spanish, I made sure to download the Google Translate app and install the Offline Spanish Translator. This app will be super helpful for any of your international travels. 

I also highly recommend downloading Duolingo a couple months before your travel date and start practicing basic Spanish phrases to help you get around.

ORGANIZED TOUR GROUPS

The last thing I want to mention briefly as you prepare for your potential trip to Cuba is that organized tours are a great way to explore the country. If you’re the kind of traveler who likes to just show up and figure it out when you get there, I’d highly consider this an an option. As I’ve mentioned, Cuba takes A LOT of pre-planning and if you perhaps don’t have the time or motivation to dive into all those details, you should check out one of the many tour companies that can figure out the itinerary and all the logistics for you. 

While I didn’t actually use this company, my personal referral would be Cuban Adventures because they’re a privately-owned tour group whose focus is creating a positive impact on the people and environment of Cuba. Tour groups are kept small and most importantly, they’re significantly cheaper than most of their competitors. A 6-day tour with food, activities, bus transportation and a knowledgeable guide will cost you about $500. Other larger tour companies will charge $2000 for the same experience. 

 

I found this PDF by the U.S. Treasury Department extremely helpful on understanding the sanctions for entry into Cuba. It’s 35 pages, but you’ll only have to read the sections related to your reason for visiting.

5 Comments

  1. January 17, 2018 / 3:35 am

    Great post filled with lots of very good information here! I love the trip advisor app

    • January 17, 2018 / 8:42 pm

      It’s so handy! I use it in all my travels now 🙂

  2. January 17, 2018 / 6:21 am

    Great article! I have been thinking about making a trip to Cuba, as I’ve never been, and your tips are so helpful. I will definitely be doing a lot of pre-planning beforehand!

    • January 17, 2018 / 8:45 pm

      Feel free to send me a message if you want more info 🙂

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