A Day in L.A. - Frogtown Go Near Far • Go Near Far

Nestled along a 2.5-mile stretch of the L.A. River, Frogtown is still a somewhat secluded oasis for artists and outdoor enthusiasts alike. However, accelerated urban development in just the past year shows clear signs that this town is about to endure a huge facelift. For now, Frogtown (also known as Elysian Valley) still remains rather unknown to many Angelenos, so do yourself a favor and go check out this neighborhood now while it still holds on to some of its historic roots. Below you’ll find my recommendations on how to spend a full-day in Frogtown L.A. on a budget.

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CLIFF NOTES HISTORY

Frogtown gained its nickname from the four-legged amphibians that used to breed in the riverbed and wander around the neighborhood up until the 1970’s. Locals labeled them all as frogs, leading to quick acceptance of Frogtown as the area’s pseudonym. Frogtown natives recall how they filled the river, streets and backyards – there were so many that you couldn’t help but drive right over them. Unfortunately today, there are no frogs left due to urbanization and chemicals being spilled into the river. A fun fact, though, is that researchers have now uncovered that they weren’t actually frogs, they were toads. Toadtown just doesn’t sound as inviting, so good thing that didn’t catch on!

Up until about 2014, the only reasons you’d probably ever stop in Frogtown were if you were biking along the L.A. River Path or visiting one of the many industrial buildings that populated the area. There were no restaurants, shops or even convenience stores in the town of roughly 8,000 residents. The streets were also run by the Frogtown 13 gang, making it rather unsafe to inhabit.

While Frogtown was (and still is) a predominantly Hispanic neighborhood of single-family homes, it was once known for housing several large factories, like Hostess, and a bunch of small art studios. Even famous artists like Shepard Fairey and Amy Adler flocked to the area early on with buzz about the industrial art community establishing itself in the area.

FROGTOWN TODAY

Even with its proximity to major freeways and other popular neighborhoods, the area has managed to stay quite under-the-radar. Constrained by 5 Freeway and L.A. River, Frogtown is rather small, but unless you have a destination in mind, you may not find anything but quaint homes and old warehouses. What I find absolutely charming about this district is that everything is centralized around the bike path and constructed with the river in mind. All shops are tucked along the L.A. River to preserve its placidity, so much so, that you’d never expect there to be a commercial district at all upon driving into the area.

While most Angelenos have probably never explored Frogtown, developers have been diving in deep. Frogtown is considered one of L.A.’s hottest realty markets right now. With its central location along the 5 and 110 Freeways, many builders are buying up abandoned land and old warehouses to construct large-scale residential and commercial spaces. Similarly, investors are buying small (not even 1,000 sq. ft.) shabby homes for half a million and reselling them for nearly double. As neighborhoods like Silver Lake and Echo Park continue to price locals out, individuals are looking for somewhere new they can call home and set up shop. Soon enough, residents of Frogtown may be victim to the perpetual gentrification dilemma as well.

A recent $1 billion Greenway Revitalization project was launched by mayor Eric Garcetti to clean up the L.A. River and beautify the surroundings areas. This includes restoring the ecosystem with cleaner water, building more parks along the bike path, and hiring local architects and artists to design pieces throughout.

HOW TO SPEND A DAY IN FROGTOWN

SPOKE BICYCLE CAFE

Start your morning in Frogtown L.A. at the colorful and lively Spoke Bicycle Cafe. Located at the very end of N. Coolidge Ave., the cafe’s main entrance opens up to the bike path and L.A. River, welcoming all pedestrians and cyclists passing by. Owners Laurie Winston and Richard Latronica were pioneers of the area when opening Spoke as a proof-of-concept bike shop/cafe in 2015. They were the first people to open up a cafe along the L.A. River bike path, which has now become a regular stopping ground for outdoor enthusiasts and locals. Their mission is “to help create a more bikeable, walkable, livable Los Angeles”, which I think many Angelenos can relate to.

Using repurposed shipping containers for doors and walls, this cafe has a rustic, eclectic ambience with cycling-inspired art hanging on the walls. The all-outdoor seating area (with shade) creates an open and welcoming space for those wishing to stop in for a bite or bike fix.

They have a full kitchen, coffee bar, and are now serving beer and wine. With a wide selection of sandwiches, salads, and open-faced toasts, you’ll have many options to satisfy your tastebuds. My personal favorite is the smashed blackberry and goat cheese toast. There is also a full-service bike shop in the back as well as bike rentals, so no need to own a bike to enjoy the area.

BIKE THE RIVER PATH

Whether you’ve brought your own bike, or are renting one from Spoke Bicycle Cafe, no trip to Frogtown is complete without a ride down the L.A. River Bike Path. Cycling is actually the recommended form of transportation throughout Frogtown, as everything is conveniently located next to the bike path. You’re sure to see a ton of people out riding their bikes from one local spot to the next. On the weekends, you can even hop on the back of a Spoke pedicab and cruise around the area while learning about the neighborhood’s history.

The section of the L.A. River Bike Path stretches from Victory Blvd. in Griffith Park to Highland Park, about 7.5-miles one-way. Part of the path in Griffith Park is temporarily closed as part of the Revitalization Project to continue improving the area. Griffith Park is filled with countless road and mountain biking trails for you to explore. Or, stick to the river bike path and admire the several parks that have been designed and constructed along the trail over the past couple decades.

Follow the path over to Highland Park and explore the numerous outdoor eateries and museums that I recommend in my Highland Park city guide. To get there, head south on the bike path until you get to what looks like the end, just past Egret Park. The path then continues under the 5 Freeway and over the Figueroa Overpass into Highland Park.

My personal favorite park along the bike path is Marsh Park (also known as Lewis MacAdams Riverfront Park). Resigned in 2013, this grassy area can hold up to 200 people for small concerts and movie screenings. During the summer, FoLAR (Friends of the L.A. River) hosts monthly events there with an array of programs to foster a deeper connection to the unique natural resources of the river. There’s also a skate park, picnic grounds, children’s play equipment and beautiful views of the Verdugo Hills in the background.

There is a lesser known bike path on the north side of the L.A. River where you can see some local artist sculptures up close. This path has not been cleaned up as well as the south side, so having sturdy bike tires is ideal.

Frogtown Los Angeles River Bike Path Marsh Park

LUNCH: WAX PAPER

As you cruise down the bike path, turn off at the Elysian Valley Gateway Park for lunch. By far my favorite meal in Frogtown is at the shipping container converted take-out spot called Wax Paper. What looks like an ordinary factory storage bin, is actually just a facade for one of L.A.’s best hidden-gem sandwich shops. Still rather unknown to most of Los Angeles, this mom and pop shop, family owned and run since 2015, will craft you one of nine extremely flavorful and filling sandwiches.

Each sandwich is named after a public radio host, with a selection of sides to accompany. My personal favorite is the Larry Mantle, filled with two types of meat, cheese, and veggies, all pressed between a delicate sesame roll. They pride themselves on hand-selecting the perfect mix of ingredients for each sandwich, so substitutions are not offered; but trust me, you won’t want to switch anything out.

Frogtown Wax Paper Sandwiches Los Angeles River Bike Path

LA COLOMBE COFFEE ROASTERS

After lunch, stop by the recently opened La Colombe Coffee Roasters at the end of Newell St. with a great outdoor patio backing up to the bike path. You’ll frequently see cyclists stopping through this industrial-chic cafe for a little caffeine boost. This is the fourth flagship for La Colombe in L.A., which also serves as the bean roastery for the rest of their local cafes. La Colombe is known for its Pure Black & Tan coffee drink, but for my fellow non-milk drinkers, they have a delicious draft oat milk latte on tap.

Frogtown La Colombe Coffee Los Angeles River Bike Path

KAYAK THE L.A. RIVER

After lunch, grab your paddles and life jacket and hit the river, yes the L.A. River. While much of the 51-mile river is still underground, in 2010, the city decided the river was navigable and clean enough to open up a couple portions for public use. You can cruise downstream on a non-motorized boat or fish in the Sepulveda Basin and Glendale Narrows during the summer months between Memorial Day and Labor Day.

If you have your own boat, you can go at your own risk or join one of the free ranger-led community paddle sessions. To find out when the next one is being hosted, email lariverrecreation@mrca.ca.gov or call at 310-858-7272, ext. 300. If you’re hitting the river on your own, visit the LA River Recreation website to learn more about safety, rules and boat entry points. No permits are required.

If you don’t own your own boat and still want to partake in kayaking the L.A. River, FoLAR has teamed up with LA River Kayak Safari to host guided river trips from the FrogSpot outpost in Frogtown. The company is run by trained river experts and Frogtown locals who are excited to introduce adventurers to the wildlife and plant species in their backyard. Tours last 3 hours and cost $75 per person, so not cheap but definitely a memorable experience. You can choose from an afternoon tour (12:45-3:45pm) or sunset tour (3:45-6:45pm).

DINNER: FROGTOWN BREWERY

After a long day of biking and kayaking workouts, you deserve a cold brew refreshment. Head over to the local taproom, Frogtown Brewery, to try one of their seasonal craft beers on tap. The kid and dog-friendly neighborhood brewery also displays local artists’ work, which changes monthly. While they don’t serve food inside, a few nights a week Frogtown Brewery plays host to various food trucks. You can check out what they have lined up this week here.

ZEBULON

Close out your day in Frogtown L.A. by catching some tunes at Zebulon concert cafe. What was once a popular Brooklyn cafe, concert venue and bar, has since closed in doors in the Big Apple and reopened in Frogtown in 2017. Open nightly from 5pm-1am, this indoor-outdoor venue has a full kitchen and bar, with the main draw being an intimate stage with weekly performances by local favorites and big name stars. The venue also hosts various community events like yoga, movie screenings, craft fairs and cookouts.

OTHER NOTABLE MENTIONS

FROGTOWN ARTWALK

The Frogtown Artwalk is a biennial free tour of the studios of the artists and artisans of Frogtown. Managed by the Elysian Valley Arts Collective, this year’s event will take place on September 22, 2018 from 4-10pm. During the event, all the streets are closed down and the only options for transportation are by foot or bike.

READING BY MOONRISE

Reading by Moonrise is a quarterly reading series on the eve of the full moon, held at the Bowtie Project, a large rail yard purchased by CA State Parks in 2003 across the river from Frogtown. Authors, journalists and playwrights are invited to read original and favorite texts while admiring the gorgeous west coast sunset. Guests are encouraged to bring picnic items and blankets as they gather around the fire for s’mores and stories. The next event will take place on September 23, 2018 from 5:30-7pm.