A Day in L.A. – Highland Park

It’s no secret to Angelenos that Highland Park is one of the fastest changing neighborhoods in all of Los Angeles with new establishments opening almost every week. Step back 20 years in time and you would have found nothing but taquerias, arepa stands and shuttered up doors lining the main streets of Figueroa St. and York Blvd. Today, a day in Highland Park means wandering amongst pour-over coffee shops, vintage pop-up’s, and home decor spaces. What makes Highland Park so unique though is that the neighborhood has been and always will be a diverse mix of creativity, culture, and ethnic influence, which is apparent across the long-standing and newly renovated businesses cohabiting the same area.

HIGHLAND PARK HISTORY: CLIFF NOTES VERSION

Highland Park’s history goes back much further than 20 years ago. This 3.5 square-mile region was actually one of the first divisions of Los Angeles, which was given to Jose Maria Verdugo, the soldier of the San Gabriel mission, in 1784. After some hardships due to a drought in the 1800’s, the land was auctioned off for $3,500. In the 1880’s, two railroad lines were built right through the center of Highland Park which kept this neighborhood alive and prosperous. In the early 1900’s, the region saw its first big influx of artists and intellectuals who flocked to the area to conspire with other creatives, while building beautiful Victorian and Craftsman-style homes.

The Arroyo Seco Parkway (also known as the Pasadena Freeway today) which cuts right through Highland Park from Pasadena to Los Angeles, was the first freeway in Western United States. Its completion in 1940 was a huge movement to bridge the transitional gap from early parkways to modern freeways. Because of this new development, by the 1950’s, Highland Park experienced white flight as many inhabitants moved towards the Mid-Wilshire District, with prospects of new jobs and land.

By the mid-1960’s, Highland Park had become a predominantly Latino neighborhood of Los Angeles, with the majority being of Mexican decent. Over the next few decades, gang violence in the area continued to rise, largely led by The Avenues. It wasn’t until the early 2000’s that police launched a huge raid, reclaiming control of the area and pushing out most of the local gangs.

At this time, people started moving back to the area, attracted by the beautiful craftsman homes and lower cost of living. Today, Highland Park is said to house over 60,000 residents of various ethnic and socioeconomic groups, with the majority still classifying as Latino.

HOW TO SPEND A DAY IN HIGHLAND PARK

Here’s my comprehensive itinerary of how to spend a full day in Highland Park, Los Angeles, on a budget from delectable cheap eats to exploring Southern California’s “Portlandia” of urban sprawl and cultural diversity.

MR. HOLMES BAKEHOUSE

Start your day in Highland Park by getting in line early at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse to score one of the most coveted pastries in all of California – the warm, delicate Cruffin. When the San Francisco transplant first opened shop in Highland Park, if you weren’t in line by 7am, you’d probably be walking home empty-handed. Well, not exactly. The bakery only makes one batch of Cruffins each morning, but, there are plenty of other heavenly treats to make your mouth water – like my personal favorite, the cornflake cookie!

The price of a Cruffin is a bit steep for a pastry at $4.50, but I promise, it’s worth every soft, flakey bite. Flavors vary daily, but are usually extra rich so you can definitely share. Hours are Monday – Thursday 7am – 2:30pm, Friday 7am – 4pm, and Sat/Sun 8am – 4pm.

Source: Yelp 

HOMESTATE

Don’t fill up on pastries too quick so you save room for some Tex-Mex food around the corner at the newly-opened HomeState kitchen. The first brick and mortar in Los Feliz was an instant win with their cheap tacos, so owner Briana Valdez decided to open up shop again on the main street of Figueroa in the center of Highland Park. The cafe has a warm, rustic interior and charming, string-lit adjacent patio.

All tacos cost only $3.50 with numerous breakfast mixtures to choose from that can be ordered any time of the day. My personal favorites are the Pecos and Guadalupe. Or, if you’re looking for an authentic Tex-Mex breakfast, try one of HomeState’s migas, similar to a breakfast bowl. The food comes out fast and is accompanied with two different types of homemade salsa. Grab two tacos or one migas and you’ll be ready to take on your day in Highland Park.

TERRA MIA CAFE

After breakfast, head north on Ave. 56 away from Figueroa St. for 2 blocks to an off-beat coffeehouse with Latin flare. Terra Mia can feel quite removed from the bustle happening on Figueroa St. any time of day, as it hasn’t experienced the the same weekly influx of new storefronts that its counterpart has.

If Terra Mia sounds familiar, it is a chain coffee company throughout California but with an added twist to your new-age coffee shop movement. How does an Horchata latte or Rice and Bean Frappe sound? The company has received great praise from food aficionados, like Jonathon Gold, for being a third wave of coffee. That means that the coffee is produced in an artisanal manner favoring high-quality beans and unique flavors over mass-production.

LUMMIS HOUSE (EL ALISAL)

Charles Fletcher Lummis, an Indian rights activist, journalist and photographer, purchased a 3-acre plot of land at the base of Mt. Washington in Los Angeles in 1895 and spent 13-years building his 4,000-square-foot home. The Lummis Home and Garden represented the beginning of the Arts & Crafts Movement that led to other craftsman-style homes, like the Gamble House. Lummis was known for frequently hosting parties at his home with Spanish food and lots of music and dancing. He is also the founder of the Southwest Museum.

Today, you can visit his home and gardens for FREE from 10am – 3pm every Saturday and Sunday. Lummis was such an integral part of Northeast Los Angeles’s development that there is actually a day named after him, Lummis Day. If you happen to be in the neighborhood during early June, check out the Lummis Day Festival events taking place all around the Highland Park area.

Source: Lummis Home and Gardens`

HERITAGE SQUARE MUSEUM

After your visit to the Lummis House, head over the bridge above Arroyo Seco Parkway on Ave 43 and make your first right onto Homer St. The narrow residential road may look as though it leads to nothing but a dead-end; however, you’ll be awestruck when you reach the cul-de-sac and see eight grandiose white and multi-colored victorian homes awaiting your visit.

Feel transported back into the 19th century as you discover what it was like to live in Southern California during its first 100 years of settlement. From the simplicity of the Longfellow-Hastings House to the opulence of the William Perry Mansion, the Heritage Square Museum provides a unique look at the lifestyles of the people who contributed to the development of modern Los Angeles.

The museum is open Friday-Sunday from 11:30am – 4:30pm. Tickets are $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for children, plus AAA discounts. Self-guided tours are not allowed. Guided tours depart on the hour between 12 – 3pm and are included with your admission. Tours are approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. Also check their website for unique community and cultural events happening throughout the year.

TINFOIL’S “SECRET DELI”

Ready for lunch? Head back to Figueroa St. for a stop you definitely don’t want to pass up. What appears to be an ordinary liquor and convenience store on the corner of Figueroa is only partially a facade for the true gem hidden behind an “Employees Only” door in the back. Ask the cashier, “Do you sell birthday candles?” and you may be greeted with a unique surprise! Tinfoil is actually known for its secret deli serving up house cured meats by the pound and sandwiches and salads made with locally grown ingredients.

The grocery store is open from 11am – 10pm daily but the deli closes at 4pm Sun-Thurs and 9:30pm Friday and Saturday.

HIGHLAND PARK BOWL

If you have yet to visit Highland Park Bowl, it should absolutely be on your list. Listed as one of LA’s first bowling alleys in 1927, it served dual purposes including staging wild parties during the Prohibition days. Overtime, the venue became more of a rock music venue, especially when renamed Mr. T’s Bowl after the owner, Joseph Teresa. When Mr. T passed away in 2003, the venue slowly dissipated as well. Then, the 1933 Hospitality Group purchased the venue in 2014 with the vision to restore it to its original design; and, what a masterpiece this venue has turned out to be.

With only eight lanes and extremely high demand, there’s only one way to bowl on a budget here. Hourly lane rentals cost between $40-$70 for up to 8 people; however, it’s only $25/hour on Saturday between 11am – 4pm.  Shoes are $5 per person and if you want to reserve a lane, it’s another $20. Grab 7 of your closest friends and make a reservation during the day Saturday (as you probably won’t get a lane during that time otherwise). After all the fees, you’re looking at about $11 per person.

Hours are Mon-Fri: 5pm – 2am and Sat/Sun 11am – 2am. There is a great happy hour from 5 – 8pm Mon-Fri as well as Sat/Sun Brunch from 11am-3pm.

Source: Highland Park Bowl

LOS ANGELES POLICE MUSEUM

Continue your day in Highland Park by driving over to York Blvd to check out the Los Angeles Police Museum. The museum recounts the history of the LAPD since its beginning in 1869 with armored cars, radios and badges, and interactive programs. The building used to be the Highland Park Police Station, serving as the city’s oldest police station, before being turned into a museum in 1983. You can still view the original jail cells, as well as Charles Manson’s booking photo.

The museum is open Tuesday through Friday from 10am – 4pm and the 3rd weekend of the month from 9am – 3pm. Admission is $9 for adults, $8 for seniors, and free for children under 12.

GALCO’S SODA POP STOP

Have you ever dreamed of drinking brownie caramel cream root beer or dandelion and burdock soda? Have you ever tried a drink in a foreign country that you loved so much, then unfortunately never found it again in the states? Galco’s Soda Pop Stop might be the answer to all your prayers! Galco’s is stoked full of old-time, nearly-forgotten favorites and weird ethnic concoctions to satisfy everyone’s taste buds. No matter what flavor you’re in the mood for today, Galco’s is sure to have something right.

SHOPPING

If vintage records, crafted prints and minimalist home furnishings are your thing, you’ve come to the right neighborhood. Stop by The Juice Leaf to secure a new succulent; or peruse the stacks of rock and hip-hop LPs at Permanent Records while finding out when their next free Saturday night concert will be. There’s also The Artform Studio where you can request the DJ to spin whichever old records you’re into, while getting a haircut.

Perhaps the most iconic, but not necessarily most recognizable store in Highland Park is Fashion 21. Sound familiar? Walking by, you may not even give it a second glance, assuming it’s just an outdated bargain clothing shop. Fashion 21 is actually the original FOREVER 21 which was opened in 1984 by husband and wife, Do Wan Change and Jin Sook Chang from Korea. Their clothes targeted the growing Korean American community in Los Angeles with design and fabrics frequently found in Korea. In its first year of business, the company did over $700,000 in sales.

Source: Livingly

EL HUARACHE AZTECA

We came for the huaraches, and stayed for the costillas. This family run Mexican eatery has been serving up Highland Park with traditional Mexican cuisine and exquisite flavors for more than 20 years. There is stipulation as to whether huaraches originated in Mexico City or the Mexican countryside, but either way, El Huarache Azteca is the place to find these oval shaped dishes in Los Angeles. A full plate of food is between $10-$12, along with daily specials to choose from. And don’t forget to try an aqua fresca – I chose the watermelon and it was absolutely delicious!

BLOCK PARTY

Perhaps one of the best examples of syncretism in Highland Park is the bar Block Party. The men behind this modern watering hole have fused local flavors with the hottest drink trends. Some of their most popular drinks include CBD infused margaritas, micheladas con paleta, and boozy snowcones. As they don’t serve food, you are welcome to bring your own grub or grab some munchies from their local food truck partners. Block Party has a great back patio to soak up some rays during happy hour while challenging a friend to a game of shuffle board.

Source: Yelp

OTHER NOTABLE MENTIONS

Highland Theater: Finding a movie ticket for under $15 is almost unheard of in Los Angeles unless you happen to be in Highland Park (or have MoviePass of course). On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, the historic Highland Theater shows new release films for only $5. You can also catch a matinee before 6pm for $7 any other day of the week, or pay the whopping full price of $10 for a regular admission ticket.

Kindness & Mischief Coffee: Located in an old jewelry manufacture building, this quaint neighborhood cafe serves up a great selection of java and tea drinks, delicious sesame matcha pastries, and free books to read during your stay.

Panaderia Delicia: Every type of pan dulce you can imagine can be found in this little shop, as well as savory empanadas and custom cakes. Grab a plate and mix and match pastries as you please. They’ve even added a couple vegan and gluten-free options to their repertoire.